Flying Bulgaria

For nearly 10 years, My Man has tried to talk me into taking a paragliding tandem flight.  I always demurred, not interested in spending the money on something I wasn't even remotely interested in.  Instead, I grumbled good-naturedly about his obsession, dutifully researching and booking vacations around his hobby, looking for alternative activities for me and the kids.  

For his birthday this year, I bought him patches for each country he's flown in (to put on his glider bag), and a new patch: Bulgaria.  I had found a place in Bulgaria where the weather was still mild in October and they offered a great deal on guided paragliding.  I was sure I would be able to find some good hiking and cultural sites nearby for myself.

The day we arrived to Bulgaria, I got a text message from the company asking if I would like to enjoy a complimentary tandem flight the next day.  "Sure," I replied.  I wasn't going to pass on free.  And I knew it would make My Man happy for me to try it.  

We had to drive about two hours south to find favorable wind conditions, but I didn't mind since my itinerary was going to take me to that area anyway.  I figured I would take my tandem flight and then part ways with the paragliders to enjoy my hiking and exploring of nearby historical sites.

Before long, we were up on the mountain.  We'd hiked up the last little bit and the view over the valley was perfect.  The sun was shining, it was warm, and (to my surprise) I had a few little stomach jitters about my upcoming flight.  We were set to launch first, though, so I didn't have to wait long.  My pilot set up his wing, explained the procedure, and it was time to go.  And then, I was flying.  

And finally, I understood.  Wow, I whispered, awed by the beautiful miracle of gently soaring above mountain tops, dappled red with the newly changing leaves.  Wow, I thought, as the wind rushed past and there was no other sound.  Wow, wow, wow!  I was filled with joy and wonder and peace as the sun and air and mountains filled my soul.  "This is my meditation," my pilot explained, as we soared toward the landing.  And I thought, yes, and then, YES!  And I knew, My Man would no longer be flying alone.

It was perhaps serendipitous, (for me, not for My Man, though he was a great sport about it) when the wind was too strong for flying our last day and our guide offered to let me tag along with the new trainees for their first day.  I got to learn the basics of the gear, how to put together the harness and wing, how to pack them up.  

I was anxious to learn more but the wind was too strong.  We broke for lunch, hoping it would calm to safe conditions.  My Man and I climbed a hill to enjoy the views (and were nearly blown off!), then we just hung out for awhile.  It was beautifully sunny and I had a book, so I wasn't really complaining, but I did wonder a few times if I should have gone hiking instead.  At one point, a large herd of sheep wandered by.  

At last the wind calmed enough to try some ground handling, and all doubts of whether the wait had been worth it fled.  With my private tutor's help (I think My Man has great post-retirement career prospects as a paragliding instructor!), I finally mostly figured out the basics of getting the wing into the air, controlling it, and simulating a launch.  Of course, I didn't fly off a mountain, and I have a lot more to learn, but it was exhilarating  to begin and I can't wait for a chance to learn more.  I think it's safe to say, I'm hooked.

So although our trip to Bulgaria is over (too fast!), it will always be remembered as the trip where I discovered flying (albeit a bit late to the game).

There were other highlights of course too, though after the flying and training they faded in import.  Let me back up.  We arrived to Sofia too late to fly the first day, so My Man and I explored the beautiful downtown area, appreciating the beautiful art and architecture of the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, one of the largest Eastern Orthodox churches in the world. 

The interior paintings were especially beautiful and well-preserved. 

We wandered through the local market, then enjoyed lunch in a beautiful cafe overlooking another beautiful church. I saw the oldest building in Sofia (the Church of St. George) and My Man saw the presidential changing of the guard (when a lack of parking options caused us to momentarily split up). 

We saw the memorial to the unknown soldier and the Church of St. Sofia (afterwhich the entire city is now named). And then we headed down to our lodgings about 2 hours south at Rose Valley Lodge. The drive was beautiful. 

After my life-changing tandem flight the next day, I did head off on my own to hike and visit Assen's Fortress, a very old little fortress, turned church in a beautiful canyon.  My Man had flown over it just about a half hour before I got there.

On the way there, I had an unfortunate and hilarious (aka, extremely embarrassing) episode involving me, our rental car, an old British man, and the Bulgarian emergency road service (and a garbage truck). Instead of going into the full story here, let me just warn unsuspecting drivers that in order to put a manual car into reverse, it is sometimes required that you pull up on part of the stick shift first. . . .  Obviously.  

Meanwhile, My Man was enjoying the longest flight of his career, and he pulled it off without his variometer (the device that normally helps pilots discover thermals to stay in the air longer)! In fact, his flight was far enough to shave almost half of the driving time off the way home! Unfortunately, his normal photographer had ditched him by taking her own flight, so there aren't any pictures of his take-off or flight, just the landing and the ride home.

The next day rained buckets and buckets, so no flying, but My Man and I enjoyed a rare and relaxing day of doing almost nothing. We enjoyed lunch at a beautiful little castle winery nearby, watching the rain fall down outside the window.

All in all, it was a wonderful little getaway (much needed after two and a half stressful weeks at my new job!), and My Man seems as happy about my new enthusiasm for flying as I am.  And if you're looking for a great deal on paragliding training, you should check out the instructors at Rose Valley Lodge, who were so good they made me fall in love with flying.