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Showing posts with label Rome. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rome. Show all posts

Monday, November 19, 2018

Adventures in Italy: Vatican City and Paragliding Norma, Part 2

The next morning we checked out of our hotel early and set out for our morning Vatican Museums tour (8am exclusive tour with Italywithus.com). Normal admission to the Vatican Museums is at 9 a.m., but I’d read that the crowds were so dense it was hard to appreciate the grandeur, so we elected to splurge a bit for the pre-admission ticket at 8. Frankly, I can’t imagine the 9 a.m. crowds because by 8 the place was already an absolute zoo! And we were there in the low season! 
Unfortunately, our headsets didn’t work and our guide was a bit obnoxious so I can’t recommend the company, but I still would recommend getting the early tickets since it saved us lots of time in lines and the crowds got worse and worse the longer we were there. 
Sadly our itinerary didn’t allow time for the Vatican City paintings exhibits (definitely have to go back), but we did wander (fairly quickly) through some of the Vatican Museum's sculptures and tapestries before arriving at My Man's favorite exhibit: the Gallery of Maps, which outlined with stunning accuracy the breadth and power of the Vatican's dominion (all the better to intimidate supplicants).  In addition to the maps along the walls, the ceiling's frescoes are amazing.
My favorite room was the Raphael room.  I loved seeing the paintings and imagining the rivalry between the two starkly contrasting personalities of Rafael and Michelangelo.  
I especially loved the symbols of diversity--whether indicative of a progressive Pope (as our guide indicated) or of Rafael himself (as I am more inclined to believe), it was wonderful to see the culmination of various religious symbols and philosophers and races brought together to represent enlightenment. 
By the time we got to the Sistine Chapel, we were shoulder to shoulder with other people staring up at Michelangelo's masterpiece on the ceiling and at his Last Judgement on the alter wall. It is really amazing to see in person. I recommend Steve Rick’s audio guide for both the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica (our tour guide left us right before the chapel). After a sufficient time of neck-kricking staring at the ceiling and walls (although really, there are so many paintings and stories in this room you could really spend hours), we reluctantly headed out to see the Basilica. (No pictures allowed in the Chapel, but here is Wikipedia's complete gallery of the ceiling and here is the Last Judgment.)  And here's one picture of the iconic Adam by open source pics: 
Just before heading into the Basilica from the Sistine Chapel, we passed by these mosaic gems depicting the life of Christ.  Nearly hidden, they were stunning in their vibrant simplicity.
Perhaps the most amazing part of the entire Vatican City experience for me, was to see Michelangelo's Pieta’, housed in St. Peter’s Basilica after just having seen his fresco masterpieces (in spite of his adamant claim that he was a sculpture, not a painter) and then gazing up at the dome he designed as his last artistic triumph. To consider the man who so completely epitomizes the renaissance, re-making himself again and again as an artist to such acclaim from the beginning to the end of his life, is truly inspiring. 
The sheer scale of the art in the Basilica is another jaw-dropping experience. Until you are there, you simply cannot appreciate the hugeness of it all. The “little” cherubs are bigger than a person and everything gets bigger from there. It’s simply stunning (and a little much, honestly). 
For me, the entire experience was inspiring and fascinating and wonderful, but too busy and gaudy to be sacred. Give me a quiet mountain top or forest glen, and there is where my soul renews.
And that is exactly where we headed next. After stopping for one last pizza in Rome, we grabbed our rental car and headed for the hills of Norma. 
Our little AirBnB apartment was literally perched on a cliff (the balcony stuck out over the drop off) and it was impossible to drive to (we meandered on foot through tiny rock alleyways to find it), but it was enchanting. The bed faced full-window walls on three sides and the sun shone in brightly.
We dropped off bags and headed straight for the paragliding launch at the Norba archaeological site. There, a herd of sheep grazed, families picnicked, the sun shone, the grass and wildflowers smelled enchanting, and the half-ruined stone castle stood sentinel on the hill behind us. 
My Man launched into the sunset and soared as I soaked in the last of the day’s sunshine and my soul expanded. As much as I loved Rome, I loved the quiet hills of Norma even more.  In fact, we loved Norma so much we were tempted to ditch the rest of our trip and just stay there!  To find out what we decided, you'll have to read Part 3 . . . 

Sunday, November 18, 2018

Adventures in Italy: Rome, Norma, Naples, Pompeii and more! (Part 1)

Italy has been on my bucket list since FOREVER.  Seriously.  One of my very favorite books is a 776-page beast about the life and works of Michaelangelo I read in 8th grade (The Agony and the Ecstacy by Irving Stone, a book I very much recommend, by the way, if you're thinking of heading to Rome).  Also, I love pizza and pasta and gelato and sunshine . . . obviously, I'm pretty much Italian and still after all these years, I had never made it there.  I think it was just too overwhelming. There is so much to see and do and never enough time.  So finally, My Man talked me into a long weekend in Rome (with a few other destinations tucked in for good measure, since I'm sneaky like that).  I love him.
Heading straight to the airport from work, we caught an evening flight to Rome, picked up our rental car (amid a host of warnings and tips about how to avoid the myriad of possible fines, tickets, and extortions involved in renting and driving a car in Italy), and set off toward downtown Rome.  By the time we got the Hotel Arcangelo (just past the Vatican City wall!), it was after midnight and we opted for sleep rather than a late dinner.
We made up for it the next day.  Setting out for the Colosseum early, we leisurely strolled the 6 km, passing wide-eyed and open-mouthed by St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican City, Castle St. Angelo, numerous unnamed but beautiful old buildings and churches, the River Tiber, the Spanish Steps, the Vittoriano, the Roman Forum, and a LEGO store, finally arriving at the Colosseum.  

We prepurchased the official tour to the underground and belvedere (27 euros), which allowed us to skip the line (using a private entrance at the back of the Colosseum, opposite the main lines and hordes of tourists) and see everything, from the basement where they kept the animals and gladiators, to the main arena floor, and up each level to the very top.  
Our guide was fantastic, helping bring to life brilliant construction and chaos and horror of the original building and games.  We took way too many pictures, but even going through them now I have a hard time deleting any.  You're lucky I only picked a hand full instead of posting all 117 of my "favorites"!  I loved the tour.  I loved the Colosseum.  It didn't hurt that it was a beautiful day--warm, sunny, with gorgeous views of Rome from the top of the Colosseum.
The ticket also included entrance to the Roman Forums, which could be used that day or the next.  Sshhh, don't tell anyone--we didn't use ours, instead we found a cute little café on an alley behind the Colosseum where they served pizza (including gluten free!) and a gelato shop with incredible gelato.  My Man and I each ate an entire pizza and topped it off with ice cream.  No guilt, we’d already walked more than 8 km and the day was just getting started.

We then set off toward the Pantheon.The walk there was another feast for the eyes, as we stopped to explore the Vittoriano and nearly every turn showed another amazing building or monument or sight.  
The Pantheon itself is almost hidden, but well worth seeking out.  
Here we listened to Rick Steve’s audio guide about the construction and artwork inside, including the resting place of Rafael and two of Italy's first kings.  I was partly sad that the forecasted rain never materialized—I’ve heard that visiting the Pantheon during a rainstorm is a life-changing experience.  But our weather for the entire trip was far too perfect to complain about—warm and sunny, never too hot and never too cold.  We’ll have to try to catch the rain another time.

I had planned to catch the New Rome Free Walking Tour that evening and according to my detailed itinerary for the day, we had another 2 hours, so we found a quiet little café, just away from the bustle of the Spanish Steps, to rest our tired feet and get a drink.  
We dawdled awhile, watching the sun set outside and the buildings light up, before finally heading back out to meet our tour.  But no one was there.  Another look at our tickets showed that I had written down the wrong time.  They had left an hour earlier while we’d been chilling in the café.  My Man commiserated with me while secretly thanking the gods for the walking reprieve.  I decided the only thing I could not miss was the Trevi Fountain, so we made our way there for some pictures and to throw in a coin to ensure our return to Rome (though I think the gluten free pizza already sealed the deal for My Man).  
And yes, that evening’s dinner was homemade pasta (with gluten free for My Man).  I was too stuffed to even think about another gelato. On our way home we passed one of my favorite doorways, ever.  Honestly, by the time we got to our hotel we had logged more than 30,000 steps.  I think I'm lucky My Man hadn't turned into this guy by then (I think the pizza helped. . .)
And all of that was just Day 1 of our Italy Adventures!  Stay tuned for what we did next.